citrus

Candied Orange Peels, Meyer Lemon Bars, and the All-Citrus Dinner

We are ever so grateful to enjoy winter citrus from California. Meyer lemons so sweet we can eat them out of hand. Oranges so large and sweet, one is almost too much. Nothing irks me more than food waste, so the bounty always inspires a little panic. Late night Facebook friends know the pleas "What to do with all this citrus?!" Reliably good suggestions come each year and reassure me. This year, I forgot all about last year's "too much citrus" panic and the recipes that inspired this post: Top 5 Ways to Enjoy Winter Citrus. I once again issued the call for help.

Mimosa Supreme

After a morning of Mimosa Supremes (fresh squeezed OJ, splash of St. Germain, dash of orange bitters, topped with Chandon Brut) I was looking at a bowl of orange domes...I began poking around. Gorgeous photos of food to inspire anyone got me thinking about making candied orange peels. (See this post  on the blog called Use Real Butter), though you should be warned: you are likely to stop whatever else you're doing and start cooking. You really just want to make everything. Even if you cannot use real butter because of a hideous dairy allergy.

I'm here to tell you, you cannot let that get in your way. If you did, you might miss these:

Meyer Lemon Bars

This shortbread crust was made with half white whole wheat, the fat replacing butter was a combination of non dairy butter and coconut oil. Tasted pretty damn good if I do say so myself. (One 8x8 pan is meant to serve four, right?)

The all-citrus dinner for Celine & Pierre included:  Ceviche, orange and Meyer lemon supremes with shaved fennel and celery, citrus roasted 5 spice chicken, over freekeh and peas, garlicky wok-tossed greens with lemon zest. Then, lemon bars and candied orange peel for dessert.

 

candied orange peel

 

I also made some lemon curd using half coconut oil, half vegan butter substitute and the egg yolks leftover from clarifying stock with an egg white raft. This curd is a marked improvement from last year's.

Following Gong-gong's 70th party (of course, I cried during my speech, you had no doubts, right?) our two nieces helped me pick these kumquats, I think my in-laws' tree must be bare!

kumquats

Current fantasy: triple citrus marmalade....what would you make?

Top 5 Ways to Enjoy Winter Citrus (plus a couple dead-easy recipes)

Every once in a while we have to shake things up. We all get stuck in ruts, falling back on the familiar recipes, the easy ones we don't have to think about.

Right now, even in New England, we have citrus. You may even have a CSA that brings you citrus from the East coast. Or, if you're really lucky, you may have relatives that mail you boxes of citrus from their yard. You may simply pick up some gorgeous citrus in the grocery store. There's a reason we crave citrus in Winter. It's full of vitamins and tastes of the sun - what's not to love?

Here are my picks for some favorite ways to incorporate citrus, hopefully they'll give you some inspiration.

1. Roast a chicken with oranges and lemon and warm Indian spices.

The other night I wanted to roast a chicken. It's one of those meals that grounds me. After traveling to Mali, coming home with a bad cold, visits with out-of-town friends, my many meals out, I was desperate to get cooking again. My friend Virginia Willis calls chickens Gospel Birds (follow that link to find two other recipes including citrus) because they were a traditional Sunday after-church meal.

I had Indian spices on my mind, so here's what I did: Washed and patted dry a chicken we got on sale at Whole Foods. I mixed some homemade Punjabi Garam Masala and canola oil and rubbed that bird all over, let it sit a couple hours in the fridge. To make your own garam masala see Raghavan Iyer's 660 Curries or simply buy his new spice blends, here.

When the oven was pre heating (to 375) I sliced orange and lemon wedges and about half a red onion and placed those in the cavity. Tied its legs and folded the wing tips under, then roasted for about half an hour in a small roasting pan with a little water in the bottom. After that first half hour or 40 minutes, I tossed lemon halves, orange wedges, ginger, garlic and a large carrot chopped up into the roasting pan. Once or twice I poured the accumulated juices into a bowl and basted the chicken with it.

While the chicken rested, I poured the pan juices into a grease separator, deglazed the pan with a little saké, added the juice and zest of half an orange went into a pan sauce, along with some citrus champagne vinegar, and the de-greased pan juices. No butter, no flour, just a slightly reduced citrusy pan sauce.

We had white rice (I was out of basmati~!) with aloo gobhi (another simple and satisfying Indian dish - potatoes, ginger, garlic, cauliflower, simmered in tomato and spices). The aloo gobhi came together while the chicken was roasting. Another meal, I made Kathy Gori's Spinach Pachadi, basmati rice and mulligatawny soup.

As our niece Ennyn says "Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy."

2. Make a citrus aioli or mayonnaise.

A little Meyer Lemon is a wonderful thing in some mayo. Even if you're just using it for workaday sandwiches, the extra punch of lemon zest in the mayo is divine. Be sure to get organic lemons and oranges so the zest is free of chemicals. A microplane grater makes quick work of zesting.

 

3. Infuse some vodka.

We have a batch of vodka sitting with lovely strips of Citron. I should've shot some photos but totally forgot. Citron is wild. It looks like a gigantic lemon. I used my vegetable peeler to remove thin strips of zest without pith (the spongy bitter white portion of citrus). Then, I cut into the Citron to squeeze out about a Tablespoon of juice. Really, in that whole thing, that was all there was!

 

4. Enjoy some sustainable seafood.

 

  • Slice lemon or orange slices in some en papillote preparation.
  • Make a ceviche with scallops, squid, poblano, aji amarillo, kumquats and citrus.

 

Here's the ceviche completed:

 

Que RRRRico!

 

5. Lemon Ginger Quinoa.

I had one meal of some leftover Chinese food (dao miu - pea tendrils, and tofu). I just needed a little something but I was too hungry to wait for rice! Quinoa to the rescue. If you haven't tried quinoa yet, you really should. I am giving you one last chance with this easy recipe. It's DONE in less than half an hour!

 

Dead-easy Recipe: Lemon Ginger quinoa recipe

Instructions:

 

  1. Rinse white quinoa thoroughly in a fine mesh sieve. The little berries (yes, they are fruits of the quinoa plant, not actually a grain) are coated with saponin which while it won't hurt you, tastes soapy. I'm convinced most folks who have had a bad quinoa experience have simply had quinoa that wasn't rinsed.
  2. Place quinoa and water in a small pot. Add a slice of fresh ginger root and a wedge of Meyer Lemon. I think orange would work just as well. Whatever your measure of quinoa is, simply add twice the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and pop a lid on it.
  3. Check in 20 minutes to see if water has absorbed. Stir a few times and your quinoa will be done when the little grains unfurl and the water is absorbed.
Enjoy. The advantage of quinoa in addition to its quick cooking time is that it is better for you nutritionally (calcium, protein, minerals) and adds protein to the plate. Zero fat, just good flavor.
Leftover quinoa can be added to or substituted for your morning oatmeal.

  • What are your favorite ways to eat or cook with citrus?
  • Drop a comment and win a package of Raghavan Iyer's Garam Masala. (Have a look at these gorgeous photos and lovely article on The Heavy Table blog.)
  • I'll use the random number generator to pick from our comments. Contest closes 5 PM Wednesday February 29th!