Top 5 Ways to Enjoy Winter Citrus (plus a couple dead-easy recipes)

Every once in a while we have to shake things up. We all get stuck in ruts, falling back on the familiar recipes, the easy ones we don't have to think about.

Right now, even in New England, we have citrus. You may even have a CSA that brings you citrus from the East coast. Or, if you're really lucky, you may have relatives that mail you boxes of citrus from their yard. You may simply pick up some gorgeous citrus in the grocery store. There's a reason we crave citrus in Winter. It's full of vitamins and tastes of the sun - what's not to love?

Here are my picks for some favorite ways to incorporate citrus, hopefully they'll give you some inspiration.

1. Roast a chicken with oranges and lemon and warm Indian spices.

The other night I wanted to roast a chicken. It's one of those meals that grounds me. After traveling to Mali, coming home with a bad cold, visits with out-of-town friends, my many meals out, I was desperate to get cooking again. My friend Virginia Willis calls chickens Gospel Birds (follow that link to find two other recipes including citrus) because they were a traditional Sunday after-church meal.

I had Indian spices on my mind, so here's what I did: Washed and patted dry a chicken we got on sale at Whole Foods. I mixed some homemade Punjabi Garam Masala and canola oil and rubbed that bird all over, let it sit a couple hours in the fridge. To make your own garam masala see Raghavan Iyer's 660 Curries or simply buy his new spice blends, here.

When the oven was pre heating (to 375) I sliced orange and lemon wedges and about half a red onion and placed those in the cavity. Tied its legs and folded the wing tips under, then roasted for about half an hour in a small roasting pan with a little water in the bottom. After that first half hour or 40 minutes, I tossed lemon halves, orange wedges, ginger, garlic and a large carrot chopped up into the roasting pan. Once or twice I poured the accumulated juices into a bowl and basted the chicken with it.

While the chicken rested, I poured the pan juices into a grease separator, deglazed the pan with a little saké, added the juice and zest of half an orange went into a pan sauce, along with some citrus champagne vinegar, and the de-greased pan juices. No butter, no flour, just a slightly reduced citrusy pan sauce.

We had white rice (I was out of basmati~!) with aloo gobhi (another simple and satisfying Indian dish - potatoes, ginger, garlic, cauliflower, simmered in tomato and spices). The aloo gobhi came together while the chicken was roasting. Another meal, I made Kathy Gori's Spinach Pachadi, basmati rice and mulligatawny soup.

As our niece Ennyn says "Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy."

2. Make a citrus aioli or mayonnaise.

A little Meyer Lemon is a wonderful thing in some mayo. Even if you're just using it for workaday sandwiches, the extra punch of lemon zest in the mayo is divine. Be sure to get organic lemons and oranges so the zest is free of chemicals. A microplane grater makes quick work of zesting.


3. Infuse some vodka.

We have a batch of vodka sitting with lovely strips of Citron. I should've shot some photos but totally forgot. Citron is wild. It looks like a gigantic lemon. I used my vegetable peeler to remove thin strips of zest without pith (the spongy bitter white portion of citrus). Then, I cut into the Citron to squeeze out about a Tablespoon of juice. Really, in that whole thing, that was all there was!


4. Enjoy some sustainable seafood.


  • Slice lemon or orange slices in some en papillote preparation.
  • Make a ceviche with scallops, squid, poblano, aji amarillo, kumquats and citrus.


Here's the ceviche completed:


Que RRRRico!


5. Lemon Ginger Quinoa.

I had one meal of some leftover Chinese food (dao miu - pea tendrils, and tofu). I just needed a little something but I was too hungry to wait for rice! Quinoa to the rescue. If you haven't tried quinoa yet, you really should. I am giving you one last chance with this easy recipe. It's DONE in less than half an hour!


Dead-easy Recipe: Lemon Ginger quinoa recipe



  1. Rinse white quinoa thoroughly in a fine mesh sieve. The little berries (yes, they are fruits of the quinoa plant, not actually a grain) are coated with saponin which while it won't hurt you, tastes soapy. I'm convinced most folks who have had a bad quinoa experience have simply had quinoa that wasn't rinsed.
  2. Place quinoa and water in a small pot. Add a slice of fresh ginger root and a wedge of Meyer Lemon. I think orange would work just as well. Whatever your measure of quinoa is, simply add twice the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and pop a lid on it.
  3. Check in 20 minutes to see if water has absorbed. Stir a few times and your quinoa will be done when the little grains unfurl and the water is absorbed.
Enjoy. The advantage of quinoa in addition to its quick cooking time is that it is better for you nutritionally (calcium, protein, minerals) and adds protein to the plate. Zero fat, just good flavor.
Leftover quinoa can be added to or substituted for your morning oatmeal.

  • What are your favorite ways to eat or cook with citrus?
  • Drop a comment and win a package of Raghavan Iyer's Garam Masala. (Have a look at these gorgeous photos and lovely article on The Heavy Table blog.)
  • I'll use the random number generator to pick from our comments. Contest closes 5 PM Wednesday February 29th!


Thanksgiving 2011 and other recipes to inspire you

Thanksgiving 2011 has come and gone, even the leftovers have been consumed, repurposed, or frozen. And Christmas is just five days away.

We had a giant group this year and hosted buffet style. Did a couple things differently, including allowing others to help. I refined a few things, added an item or two and of course, we had spreadsheets. It's all about project management skills, and for me, that admission does nothing to diminish my joy. I just love to feed family and friends.

We borrowed tables, chairs and service ware from a restaurant manager friend, Jesse, who cheerfully coordinated and schlepped a half dozen tables, couple dozen chairs, etc. with Nehal's help. We were honored that Zander has spent his first and his second Thanksgiving with us.

We ran tables diagonally through the loft, here you can see the trays of homemade bread cubes drying. Trifle dish and vases repurposed for silverware rolls.

At some point, I'll have some video to load, so you can get a taste of what the night was really like. For now, a few photos that I remembered to take, a recipe or two and the menu.

(I had a timeline, plus diagrams of what went into which ovens, and where, when the turkeys came out to rest. It almost happened the way I imagined it should. Almost.)


The Menu

  • Lisa & Nehal's Red sangria, White sangria
  • Hot apple cider from the Pioneer Valley (Thanks David & Stephanie)




The dinner:

roast turkey






















  • Bob’s Turkeys 2, 16 lb birds this year, Thanksgiving spice-rubbed
  • Kristen’s Ham - (D'Artagnan, too!) & cheddar chive biscuits
  • Kristen's truffled wild mushrooms casserole
  • Butternut Squash Soup (v, gf)
  • Kim’s Chard & Lentil Shepherd’s Pie w/ no bones gravy (v, gf)
  • Madeira gravy made from homemade turkey stock
  • Mushroom-herb-leek stuffing
  • Sausage-apple dressing
  • Killer sweets (Bourbon-orange sweet potatoes) (v)
  • Cranberry Sauce w/pomegranate, orange (v)
  • Mashed potatoes
  • Martha's Sweet & White potato casserole
  • Green beans w/shallots, lemon (v)
  • Roasted root vegetables w/balsamic glaze (v)
  • Shaved fennel, celery, green apple (v, gf)
  • Arugula, Asian Pear, Pomegranate salad
  • Black quinoa with golden beets (v, gf) recipe below
  • Lauren’s squash casserole (v)
  • Butterflake bread, Golden Pumpkin Spice rolls

Kim O'Donnel's Meatless dishes are definitely not old school boring hippie veg. This Shepherd's Pie is proof! Look for Kim's second book in 2012...














One of the two ready to be carved. (See my giant new carving board? Love it!)


  • Pumpkin Pie (one w/lard +soybutter crust; one with soy butter, coconut shortening crust)
  • Apple Crisp
  • Pecan Maple pie (variation on Melissa Clark's hot recipe of the year)
  • Snappy Gingersnaps
  • Chocolate truffles (oops)
  • Maria's dried pineapple & coconut cake
  • Anouschka's vodka spiked gummie bears

The gingersnap-pecan bottom keeps the pie bottom from getting soggy, tastes good, too! BlackQuinoaGoldBeets

Recipe: Black Quinoa with Golden Beets and Caraway

Inspired by a gift of black quinoa from my friend and restaurateur Mary Reilly, I turned to my friend Maria's beautiful Ancient Grains for Modern Meals book. Page 95 Cumin-scented Quinoa with Red Beets is a crunchy salad I'll try soon, loving all the flavors in it as I do. I was smitten with these golden beets at the Dewey Square market so this recipe came together. Beets love caraway. They also pair beautifully with cumin. Sumac is a middle eastern spice that has a beautiful red color and a lemony flavor.


  • 1 C black quinoa (rinse to remove soapy saponin that coats the quinoa, I put them in a fine mesh sieve and run under cold water grabbing with my hand and squeezing, almost as if you're kneading bread)
  • 2 golden beets (steam in microwave or roast in oven while you have it on for holiday baking - wrapped in foil the beets will steam till tender then you can easily slip off the skins)
  • 1/3 C onion
  • parsley
  • lemon juice
  • pomegranate seeds (remember how easily you can seed these)
  • 1/2 tsp sumac
  • 1/2 tsp cayenne (if you don't like spice, cut back to 1/4 tsp or omit altogether if you wish)
  • 1 tsp each cumin seeds and caraway seeds




  1. Rinse quinoa (you may use any quinoa here, but I love the black or red for the dramatic color contrast on the table)
  2. Sauté onion in a little of the olive oil, add cumin seeds and caraway
  3. Add rinsed quinoa and about 1 3/4 C water, let it come to a gentle boil, reduce heat and cover. Liquid will be absorbed in about 15 minutes and you'll see the little germs of the seed unfurl like tiny little flags. That is when your quinoa is done.
  4. Toss scented quinoa with cubes of golden beets, chopped parsley and a handful of pomegranate seeds.
  5. Sprinkle with sumac, cayenne, lemon juice, best quality olive oil. Taste and adjust if needed - salt, lemon juice, more toasted cumin seed or caraway if you like.


As is my tradition, I forgot these in the freezer: