Japanese Cuisine

Sushi Secrets - What's a Little Spam Musubi between Friends? Rings Lost and Found.

It all began with my Grandma. I went to visit her, in Hawaii the year before law school. She'd made a lunch of American cheese on white bread for her hapa granddaughter and I'd brought home a freshly grilled mackerel from the Japanese grocery. We had a good laugh and when she realized I loved Japanese food and flavors she asked me if I'd ever had sushi.

At that point, I really hadn't -- save for a late night party in restaurant after closing hours. A female chef told me hilarious stories of trying to learn how to make this new thing called sushi from Japanese sushi chefs she could not understand. She'd carefully dropped each nigiri rice bed into a pot of water because she misunderstood their accent thinking the master had said "put them in water". What he had actually said was to put them "in order" (which, in a Japanese accent would sound nearly like "in water").

Sushi eating, much less making well, it was all so mysterious back then. Sushi bars were not yet fixtures in every city, every grocery store. It's possible the story was a little funnier because of the after-hours drinks but ... suffice to say I didn't really feel like I knew my way around a sushi menu from that drunken walk-in cooler introduction.

Grandma took me to a local hotel sushi bar that happened to have an early bird special on sushi. I think it was some ridiculously good price for all you could eat sushi between certain hours. The sushi bar was tucked into an alley, between hotels and had all of five or so seats. In a city like Honolulu that caters to tourists, this was clearly a local hidden gem.

Grandma ordered a few pieces tentatively and watched for my reaction. I guess she thought if Ididn't care for it, it was not a waste of a ton of money. Then she ordered more, and more. She was so happy to see me enjoy it, and kind of in disbelief. She taught me to eat it with o-hashi/chopsticks. (I never told her what the Japanese businessman next to us explained to me: "In Tokyo we eat sushi with fingers." He implied that because she was from Hokkaido, she didn't know any better.)

She was delighted to watch as I ate my fill of this new treat. This was a fantastic visit and the only time she and I had had together, just the two of us. I will always remember how much I learned about her, and from her, during that week. We shared a love of travel and I admired her work part-time at a newspaper where the young staff valued her knowledge of kanji enabling her to typeset the printing plates with more accurate and nuanced vocabulary they did not possess.

Before my arrival, she had saved some money to buy me a gift. She explained that she was afraid she didn't know me well enough to be confident she could buy me an appropriate gift. It had been years since we'd lived near each other in Hawaii, after all. The distance between 8 years old (when she brought me my first camera) or even 12 years old (when we left Hawaii) and law school, was great. I expected no gift but her company and the time with her so I was surprised when she gave me some money, explaining I was to buy something that I wanted.

I'd noticed a small jewelers near the Japanese grocery where I picked that mackerel off the broiler/conveyer belt, still warm under its plastic. Something in the jewelry store window caught my eye. It seemed to me something solid would be a good way to mark this special week. I wanted to be able to look back and remember it with something tangible. I picked out a gold ring, easily the most valuable and extravagant thing I'd ever owned at that point. I thought about touching it in the future and remembering my grandmother and the special week we'd had - just the two of us - before I lost myself in law school, in practice, in life.

When I showed her my purchase and thanked her for it, she did the über-Japanese thing, a small polite smile and a nod. "Grandma, do you like it?" "If it pleases you, then I'm happy." Well it does please me, though I don't wear gold that often anymore, I do wear it to remember her and to mark special occasions.

Getting to the Sushi Secrets Part of the Story....

As I became more immersed in Japanese food, and learned more about sustainable seafood issues, I developed a different sort of relationship with sushi. When  Marisa Baggett asked me to provide a quote for her upcoming Sushi Secrets book, I was honored to do so. It was during this same trip to my grandmother's that I met Marisa's publisher Mr.Tuttle himself who would ultimately publish Marisa's book. Curious, yes? Here's his nephew who shared a snorkeling trip to Hanauma Bay with me, with Mr. and Mrs. Tuttle on the left. (She is from Hokkaido, just like my grandmother was!) They were very kind to me, inviting me to their hotel for an afternoon drink.

Tuttle Mori

Sustainable seafood and sushi are two passions Marisa and I share, in this book she skillfully combines them both. If you are aware of the growing scarcity of  many species of fish, you may be inclined to forego sushi. Outside of a handful of Eco-conscious restaurants like Tataki and Miya's, you'd be hard pressed to find sustainability on the menu at most sushi bars you'll find. You can learn to make wise choices with the help of pocket guides and smart phone apps, but once you open your eyes to the depletion of our oceans, it's tougher to enjoy any old sushi joint.

You can also learn to make sushi at home. If you don't think you can do it, I'm here to convince you otherwise. Marisa's book is a perfect guide. Just take a look at these kids making sushi in this video.

 

The Spam + Friends part of the story...

When I got the chance to assist Chef Nathan Fong at the British Columbia Sustainable Seafood booth at the International Boston Seafood Show, I quickly said yes. Of course we didn't have any spam on the menu there, but do feast your eyes on some of the phenomenal food we put out for the show. My job was to shop, prep, assist, clean, etc. and I had friends who helped me schlep the groceries, lent me their carts, a bin, and so on. After the show was over, I wanted to thank my friends with a "Gokurosama Sushi Secrets" dinner.

Gokurosama is the Japanese way of thanking someone for their effort.

On the menu for our Gokurosama Dinner:

  • Stir fry of sablefish with onion, black bean chili garlic sauce, cilantro
  • Cucumber radish salad
  • Gungkan Maki - uni
  • Gunkan Maki - ikura
  • Nigiri - tuna
  • Nigiri - tamago
  • Spam Musubi
  • Kappa Maki
  • Ume Shiso Maki
  • Negi - Avocado Maki
  • Takuan Maki

A funny thing happened while I was planning this dinner. A new couple moved in next door. I ran into them and invited them to come meet their neighbors and have some sushi, warning them that it was a bit of a crazy menu and crazier crew.

And that Band of Gold...

Turns out Cody and Carlos were engaged and we all fell in love with them. Cody had some hidden sushi ninja skills and brought the star power that only a former child TV star can bring. She also brought a charming Bolivian, now her husband, and a bottle of Prosecco. We were smitten. We made sushi together, using Marisa's excellent book.

Cody showing two Chinese girls rice

Here's Cody showing two Chinese girls, Lisa and Jesse, how to make rice for sushi - in the microwave. That's Carlos on the left checking out the recipe.

 

Spam Musubi

Here's our disappearing Spam Musubi. Cody's hidden talent, at least one of them, is making these.

 

Secrets Shared - One Ring Lost, Two Blessed

In just a few short months, we've become so close and shared (some might say overshared) so much. We even got invited to their wedding. I'll not steal their thunder but I will share one little secret. I wore my gold ring, purchased to commemorate my special week with Grandma, to this weekend wedding in the Berkshires. And promptly lost it.

I searched everywhere and could not find it. I kept it to myself, sharing the secret only with Doc, in case it might feel like a bad omen or something. I thought about my Grandma and that week and focused on the important things: one, the memory and not the ring is what's important; two, there was the most uplifting wedding going on where gold rings were being exchanged to signify Cody and Carlos' commitment. This was a joyous weekend and the only tears were happy tears. On checking out, I quietly left a request to the staff that if the ring should turn up, it be returned to me. I was pretty certain it was gone.

And during this weekend I had hoped to actually write about this first night we met Cody and Carlos over Sushi Secrets. I thought it would be a fun post for folks to see just after the wedding.

But it wasn't happening. There were drinks, and laughs, and friends. There were tears of joy, new friends, and more laughter. And there was this gorgeous wedding between two really sweet new friends going down. So the post, I decided, could wait. And in a moment in a hammock with my (city boy) husband, I remarked how things that seemed urgent before, suddenly felt less so now. Being in the moment is a lesson I seem to need to learn over and over again.

Cody and Carlos did exchange their rings, after a lovely "ring warming" where the rings are passed from guest to guest, during the ceremony imbuing them with all our best wishes for a lifetime of joy.

I was sad about the ring I lost, but so very happy for these wonderful people and their marriage, that the sting of my loss was diminished. Such is the power of love.

canopy

double hammock

 

Back to Secrets of the Edible Kind

Sushi is not a meal you would typically make at home, especially in the U.S. where we have a penchant for quick "3o minute meals" and we're mad for shortcuts. These notions are the opposite of how the Japanese approach, well, almost ANYTHING. However, Marisa does a great job of laying out step-by-step instructions, photos and recipes making the job of rolling or pressing sushi eminently doable.

As with any cooking, it pays to plan ahead and think about what you'll be preparing. In this case, I was celebrating my friends and showcasing fantastic seafood from British Columbia. So I had some prep to do: Dashi, tempura sauce, sweetened soy and spicy mayo, as well as rice soaking/steaming. All recipes are clearly laid out in simple instructions, and many have step-by-step pictures.

My plan was to have drinks, introduce the concept of the evening, and introduce friends to each other while we nibbled a bit of the sablefish stir-fry. Then, I figured we would not be starving and could begin trying our hand at making sushi, following the various recipes. We began with Spam Musubi partly because it was a quick one to put together. There's also nothing like sharing something as retro as Spam to break the ice.

I had the table set with Lisa's special sushi plates, dipping sauce dishes, new fancy chopsticks for everyone to take home, and of course, drinks!

plates, dishes

We prepped and cooked, and rolled, and pressed.

ikura, uni, tamago, caviar

Ikura, uni "gunkan" or battleship style sushi. Tamago in front, garnished with Northern Divine Caviar.

prep for maki

ume, shiso, kapa, takuan, negi, mushrooms all got rolled into ....

makizushi

sushi secrets

tuna, avocado, nori and my crazily tabbed book.

 

Full Circle - Rings and their Significance

I never planned on being married, myself. So I never had a fantasy about "the ring." Caleb changed that and showed me, shows me every day actually, the value of the commitment it symbolizes. Cody showed me her ring and how proud she is to have incorporated design elements from her beloved Mother's ring into her own. We held their rings and wished good things for them and were buoyed by the love that swirled around us all weekend.

We're so happy to have such great neighbors we can count as friends, like family really. We've already shared so much including this first raucous sushi feast.

As we unpacked from the weekend wedding and began to plan our week ahead and to think about the work to be completed Sunday night, I found in my suitcase the ring I was so sure I'd lost!

This whole story, my sushi discovery, meeting Mr. Tuttle, choosing a ring to mark my time with Grandma, developing an awareness of and appreciation for sustainable seafood, gaining such solid friends and sharing their wedding with them, losing and then ultimately finding my ring...rediscovering how joy supplants sadness...it all creates a perfect circle. I tend to learn in rather deliberate if not dramatic ways, don't you think?

My Grandma's presence is certainly here in this story.

So here's what I've learned from its unfolding:

Life can bring you friends and connections that might take years to mature, as with my Tuttle connection; or in the case of our friendships here, they might deepen very quickly. Joy shared openly can diminish loss. People who matter are with us in our hearts even if no tangible thing remains to remind us.

As always, there is joy in sharing a meal with friends and with some attention to what we eat, we can revel in food even while being mindful of our impact on the planet. With some thoughtful care for friends and partners, we can and will share many more meals together.

With Baggett's Sushi Secrets they might even be homemade, sustainable sushi.

Congratulations to Cody & Carlos on their marriage.

Congratulations to Marisa Baggett on this beautiful book.

May we all eat well and remember the words we Japanese say before consuming our meal: "Itadakimasu" which is to humbly receive the lives given so that we may eat. A fitting pause before a sushi meal.

 

 

New Year, New Habits, and Baby Steps. Pimp Your Gomashio!

Gomashio will be familiar to those who enjoy Japanese food. Goma- is sesame, shio-  is salt. The seasoning usually consists of sesame seeds and salt ground together, and is sprinkled on things such as noodles, salads, broiled fish or tofu. DIY Gomashio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many Japanese kitchens will have a grinder that looks like this one, where Americans would have a salt shaker or pepper mill.

DSC_0010_2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I often mix Gomashio with Shichimi and top edamame with the blend, like so:

 

gomashio edamame

A tasty snack.

As a firm believer in "baby steps" I'm sharing one of my favorites with you today. "Pimp" or upgrade your gomashio to enhance your foods - Asian and not - and add nutritional benefits of flax seed. Either in a spice grinder, or a Suribachi, (a Japanese grinding bowl with unglazed ridged interior, used as a mortar and pestle) you must grind the flax to enjoy the benefits of them (otherwise they just sail on through). If you don't have a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, you can buy flax seed already ground but know that it is prone to turning rancid pretty quickly so you may want to store in the freezer and just put a small amount in a shaker near your S&P.

Mix ground flax with water before adding to recipes and after it sits a few minutes, you'll see it become sort of gooey. That is the result of the soluble fiber, one of the chief benefits of flax.

Benefits of Flax

Mounting evidence shows flax may help reduce your risk of:

  • heart disease,
  • cancer,
  • stroke and
  • diabetes.

Rich in alphalinolenic acid (a form of healthy omega-3 fatty acid), and lignans (phytoestrogens that function like antioxidants), ground flaxseed are often recommended in anti-cancer diets. Each tablespoon of ground flaxseed contains about 1.8 grams of plant omega-3s. Flax is a good source of Magnesium, Phosphorus and Copper, and a very good source of Dietary Fiber, Thiamin and Manganese.

While many of us might not have thought about eating flax, you can easily incorporate it into many of our familiar foods. There seem to be enough reasons for us to do so.

Check vegan recipes especially, which often rely on flax to replace egg as a binder. Recent studies have dispelled the belief that flax seeds lose their nutritional benefit when exposed to heat. Go ahead and bake away!

Other ways to add flaxy-gomashio:

  • top grilled, stewed, or baked vegetables
  • sprinkle on roasted potato
  • sprinkle on hummus
  • sprinkle on a salad

To add simple ground flax:

  • stir into oatmeal or sprinkle on cereal
  • grind and add to baked goods
  • add to smoothies, waffles, pancakes
  • make flax crackers or even Monster Cookies from Robin Asbell's Big Vegan.

 

Read More about Flax:

 Learn more about how I can help you Shop, Cook, Eat - Better.

Oyako Donburi - Eating a Mother and Child and Laughing out Loud

If you lived near me, you might find odd smells (usually good ones) wafting out into the hallway. You migtht sometimes hear me talking to the cats, or to myself, or occasionally laughing. Today, I did all three. Oyako donburi The not so photogenic, but oh-so delicious, lunch.

Oyako Donburi

I got it in my head that I had to have Oyako Donburi for lunch. Oyako Donburi is a Japanese comfort food that takes rice, chicken and egg and makes a meal of these humble ingredients. When we were kids, I laughed at the odd name - "mother and child" and also thought it was a little weird in its implications. I am to enjoy consuming a mother and her infant? What? Okay, well chicken and egg, but "ko" is "child" so it's odd. It just is.

Today I realized I had poached two chicken breasts yesterday and they sat in their poaching liquid in the fridge. I have eggs again, thanks to the modern miracle of refrigeration, and I also had two bowls of leftover rice. I also had two egg whites awaiting my next stock/raft opportunity. The plan was hatched. Sorry.

So what does crazy hapa* girl do?

First, I clarify the poaching liquid with egg whites, creating a raft with with a little very nice white wine vinegar, dropping in a squeeze of tomato paste and a few Madagascar peppercorns and a slice of ginger.

Then, I sautéed about a quarter of an onion with peanut oil (no sesame, damn!) sugar, soy sauce and gomashio (sesame salt blend to which I add flax seed). Next, I added a sliced scallion, deglaze the pan with some of the now-clarified stock, shred some of the poached chicken breast, mix two eggs with some dashi-soy I got from a Japanese vendor at a food show, (great stuff not yet available here).

I heated up the rice in a large bowl, then decided it didn't look like enough, added more rice, reheated, added eggs and stock to pan, swirled and shook to set in a custardy omelet that went over the hot rice with more of the consomme.

As I'm burning my tongue on the lunch (patience has never been - probably never will be, my strong suit), I look up at the kitchen. It really looks as if I'd just cooked for an army the dishes are piled to overflowing in the sink. And I laugh out loud.

For this one sort of leftover-ish lunch I have dirtied:

  • one pan (for the onions, eggs),
  • one pot (for clarifying stock),
  • one whisk (for stock),
  • one small prep bowl (eggs),
  • one 4 C measuring cup (for stock, after clarified),
  • one fine mesh sieve (for straining raft),
  • one square of muslin cheesecloth (ditto),
  • one pair of chopsticks (mixing eggs),
  • one knife (slicing ginger, onions),
  • one cutting board (ditto),
  • and the large square food storage container that previously held the broth and the chicken breasts, is in there, too.

 

But, I now have clarified and enriched stock for the fridge/freezer, and enough rice for jook/congee tomorrow. I had the eyes-too-big problem and realize only at the end of lunch that the original bowl of rice would certainly have sufficed. Lesson learned. (Maybe.)

I'm happy, well-fed, and can do these dishes with a nice cup of tea while I digest the meal and plan the afternoon.

Still beats a cold sandwich any day. Apologies to that family I just ate.

Itadakimasu.

 

*hapa - is "half" in pigeon English. In Hawai'i I came to identify myself as hapa. Made sense and just stuck.

Kansha: Lecture by Elizabeth Andoh at BU's Gastronomy Program

"Kansha" - appreciation - is both an expression of gratitude for nature's bounty and also an appreciation for a particular skill and ingenuity a cook exhibits in transforming nature's raw material into a gorgeous meal. Deeply rooted in Buddhism, Kansha encourages respect for nature, finely tuned attention to it, conservation of energy, avoidance of waste, and preservation of natural resources (even while manipulating it) respect and care for it.

Hence square watermelons, which store more efficiently in a refrigerator, yet require no interference the way Round-up resistant GMO crops do.

I'm propped up by a cuppa Stumptown (Honduran Pour-over) and about to start sending various links promised to others during the inspirational Kansha learn-a-thon today with the fabulous Elizabeth Andoh. Elizabeth (probably should refer to her as Andoh-san?) is in the midst of a US visit (she lives in Japan) to share with us lessons from Kansha: Celebrating Japan's Vegan & Vegetarian Traditions -- her second book on Japanese cuisine. The trip fairly defines "whirlwind" and yet her energy and grace are inspiring. After seeing her teach today for the first time, I'm among the smitten.

Washoku is her award-winning first book and I overheard a student today proclaiming "Your book changed my life!" She is well-loved for her humour and her vast knowledge, intimate and deep, of Japan, her adopted country. You may have seen my post on my first attempt at Oden, a sort of Japanese pot-au-feu or simmered meal that is heartier than a soup, lighter than a stew.

So, begging everyone's indulgence, I'm rolling up the various promised links into this quick post, with a few photos of the day and some thoughts on my growing interest in the concept of Kansha. Learning more each day, and loving it.

RESOURCES - Japanese Food and Information

Makiko Itoh is the author of Just Hungry and Just Bento. She's been a source of steady information and clarifications of news from Japan, in English -- especially useful to those of us who dropped out of Japanese school. Here is Makiko's post on how the retailer Takashimaya is handling the sale of vegetables from disaster-affected regions.

Koda Farms Rice - My favorite Japanese style rice. This family grows Kokuho Rose heirloom varietal -- they're the the oldest, continuously family-owned and operated rice farm and mill in California. Just exquisite. Read their stirring family story here.

Kitazawa Seed Company - Every time I introduce someone to Kitazawa, they love and hate me for it. I get emails "I haven't gotten anything done since my catalogue arrived! I'm just dreaming and planning and fantasizing about my garden!" Consider yourself warned. Kitazawa is the oldest seed company in America specializing in Asian vegetable seeds. Since 1917.

Grocery Resources:

Ebisu-Ya - In Medford - some of the same folks who operated Kotobukiya in Porter Square before they got booted from the Porter Exchange. A very nice selection of Japanese groceries and produce and a pretty decent in-store sushi lunch spot.

Japan Village Mart - Brookline Village. This store is totally new to me and has no website. Looks like they're maybe a year or so old and getting better if Yelpers can be relied upon. 200 Washington Street, Brookline, MA 02445-7623. 617.274.8651.

Reliable - In Union Square, Somerville. If you can get there, it's really pretty comprehensive. Includes a personal fave, the WALL O' Kimchi. It's Korean, I know. I love it. Many Asian groceries are Korean owned and operated so I'm lucky that way!

 

♥ Of course if it's kimchi you crave, you can make your own or go to HMart (see my Dumplings, Dumplings post) and have the Kimchi Ladies custom blend your very own batch!

 

Back to our regularly scheduled topic: KANSHA

I will have much more to post soon, but wanted to share a couple photos now:

Elizabeth Andoh's Washoku and Kansha. Ten Speed Press. You may find MUCH more at her lovely new websites: Kansha Cooking. And the Washoku Cooking site, here. Buy these books they are joy to read, beautiful on the coffee table, and FULL of wisdom and insights into culinary traditions we know too little about here.

 

Kansha sampler: the strips are gourd which is sliced, marinated, then fried. Savory soy marinade makes them quite addicting. The salad is gingery enoki mushroom and carrot. And the yai sakura (cherry blossoms) rice snacks are made with a mold to take the shape of harvested rice bales which are bundled like these "tarawa." The cherry blossoms are something quite beloved in Japan (and here!) and have a very short period. This technique takes the blossoms and lightly salt cures them making a sort of salty mini rice ball. Perfect with "biru" or sake.

 

Elizabeth Andoh at Boston University. The room lights were dimmed to show the projections, but you can see she's very engaging. She conveys so much information, but lightly and in an entertaining fashion. Really a treat to experience.

I'll say "Oyasuminasai" (good night) for now and post more soon. Follow my Tweets (@LDGourmet) for updates during the day. Thank you to BU for hosting today and Thank you Elizabeth for your wealth of knowledge so generously shared!